Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
